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Canberra Table - June 2007

When benchmark’s owner Tasso Rovolis leased this ex retail site in early 2003 he literally built the restaurant from the grease trap up. Tasso who owned la lupa in Dickson had spent before leaving canberra spent years on the gold coast expanding his wine and management experience ,The front window displays some the hundreds of empty wine bottles involved in gaining this knowledge. The head chef Avram Tsidiridis formerly of The Tower restaurant runs the kitchen with unflappable efficiency so much so that he was working alone the night we dined in the booked out restaurant.
The luxurious dining room has a theme of wine paraphernalia and wood grain, this is interspaced by gumleaf green feature panels all under 16 foot ceilings. Benchmark is a wine bar first and fore most, but where many restaurants concentrate on the cuisine to the detriment of a wine list, the reverse cannot be said of Bench mark. We arrived early evening and soaked up the cosmopolitan atmosphere while parusing the wine list, there were many delightful selections (500 wines, 100 of which are available by the glass) so we left it to our waiters to come up with the options to match our meals. The dinner menu is not huge, yet every dish sounds sumptuous. I start the night with the pan seared scallops ,roasted pork belly, salsa vierge and aromatic herb oil. The delicately cooked scallops snuggled into one shell topped with crispy pork belly. The salsa vierge was secreted beneath the shell. All together the salsa accented the sweetness of the scallops with the pork providing texture and salt. this was partnered by a Pierre de la Grange, 'Vieilles Vignes', Muscadet, Loire Valley, 2004 ($12.5) a subdued and elegant white great with delicate seafood flavours.

my wife selects the crumbed pan fried meredith goat's cheese with semi dried tomatoes and an oregano balsamic syrup (16) the beautifully browned goats cheese puck was smooth and tart. the accompaniments identify this dish as Mediterranean with modern European flair. A bay of fires pipers reisling sparkling compliments the dish being fine competition for any import



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Few establishments in Canberra enjoy such a popular reputation as Tilleys Devine Café in Lyneham. It’s a credit to owner Pauli Higgison that Tilleys has remained a popular local haunt and dining spot that has earned fans from all over the world. One vital element that Tilleys is renowned for is the long list of musical acts that ring up in the hope that they can play on this unique stage. Tilleys broke ground by banning groups of men in the early days unless they had at least one female member, this coupled with a no smoking policy long before it was enforced and pioneering alfresco dining in Canberra are just some of the quality strings in Tilleys bow. The hallowed dining area, is a sparsely lit room awash with deep red velvet curtains and dark wood panelling. Quiet tucked away booths frame the room, brass bar fittings and waiting staff decked out in white blouses and ties, gives the distinct feel of a 1920s period movie. This is no accident, as the cafes name sake Tilley Devine was a prominent and flamboyant socialite and criminal, who ran brothels in Sydney from the 1920s to the 1950s.
We arrive at Tilleys with the early worshipers atoning for their hangovers by praying to the god espresso. We settle into our booth with our two children and guests. There is no table service, a fact that does not detract from the efficiency of the wait staff. Consuming our first coffees (flat white $3.30) while perusing the delicious and tempting menu. The coffee is perfect, not boiled or bitter, an improvement on some that I have had there over the years. After ordering our breakfast we enjoy the atmosphere as the tables around us quickly fill with customers. After a short wait, our meals arrive and we tuck in eagerly to the ample offerings. Our two little ones have the pancake stacks with maple syrup and king island cream ($9.50). The sweet disks are a hit and are devoured in good order, keeping them satisfied for the duration of breakfast. My dining companions have variations of eggs Benedict (with either bacon$9.90, smoked salmon $14.50 or sautéed mushrooms $10.40) the mixed grain toast makes a great base for this meal a welcome departure from bland muffins, an often expected accompaniment. The hollandaise is just the right consistency gently coating the dish and providing a tart flavour to compliment the eggs. The poached eggs that arrive are very runny, slightly diminishing the enjoyment of this dish for some of my guests. The house made baked beans ($9.50) are my selection with bacon and mushrooms as extras ($2.50ea). The beans are rustic and delicious, with chunks of tomato and a good smattering of herbs. The mushrooms are well sautéed in butter and garlic and are delicious. The generous serve of bacon that arrived with this dish is quite over cooked, forcing me to leave most of it in the end and the garnish of rocket on the savoury dishes did seem a bit tired. Attention to detail seemed just out of reach
Tilleys Devine Café remains an iconic venue where the unique ambience is the main ingredient. Every Canberran should visit this retro establishment at least once for its cultural and symbolic significance alone it offers a special something that some cafes will never quite achieve


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review collection- delissio

June 23rd 2007 01:39
Situated in the suburb of Curtin, quite separate from the usual southern feeding grounds of Manuka and Kingston, you will find Delissio, a bustling hot spot of hospitality. Delissio’s fresh décor, contrasts a red lit night club style bar, tucked away to the side in an unobtrusive way, with a tall airy white dining area, over hung with giant orb like light shades (mirrored in a painting by Veronica Grobben, wife of chef Jeremy Grobben and part owner). It’s a simple and dramatic design that gives the large room a feeling of warmth. Chef and owner Jeremy Grobben draws inspiration from a broad swathe of cuisines for his menus, and goes for a fresh simple approach, qualities most important to modern Australian cuisine.
My wife and I arrive at the restaurant, which even on a cool spring weeknight, has customers waiting inside and out for tables. Once seated, we spend the first minutes taking in the upbeat and buoyant atmosphere. After perusing the wine list, we choose by the glass selections, a Sergi Estate S.A. shiraz ($7.5) and a Matua valley N.Z. sauvignon blanc ($7.5). My Wife’s Sergi Estate is smooth and complex with a light, peppery after taste, while my sauvignon blanc is bright, with passionfruit flavours and has an even finish on the palate, complimenting our menu selections nicely.
We take in the comprehensive menu, while enjoying the Quartet of dips (homous, beetroot, vegetable pave and pumpkin sweet chilli.) accompanied by char grilled pita bread. The bread was more like char grilled pizza bread, soft and freshly baked, though given the choice it’s what I would have picked. The homous is fantastic, with the lemon and garlic the foremost flavours in this variation of the favourite. For Entrée my wife selects a goat’s cheese stack ($11) while I choose the goong wan jor ($15). The stack is constructed of rustic pieces of roasted sweet potato dolloped with pesto and goats cheese, simple yet displaying a complex marriage of flavours lacking in a lot of vegetarian options. My gong wan jor presents as a pyramid of fried spring roll wrapped prawns, prosciutto and capsicum served with tart lemon aioli. It is filling for an entrée, and I would advise that you definitely use the lemon provided to compliment the oiliness of this dish


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review collection- Musica E

June 23rd 2007 01:36
i am going to post a collection of published restaurant reveiws that i wrote for the casnberra times as much to give my fiends and family a place to read them as for any other readers to view. this is in lew of of a new review exclusive to orble which i will be putting on my site early next week. i hope you enjoy themMusica e, That's Amore
If you're looking for a new and different dining experience in Canberra, look no further than Musica E.
The brainchild of actor-turned-restaurateur Mario Gamma, this ``singing'' restaurant features live performances by the man himself on Friday and Saturday nights


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just not footy

June 21st 2007 01:44
Well the kids ate it and more than 75% went into their mouths and not onto the floor. So as promised I will talk about foot ball. My team in the afl is saint Kilda and I have supported them since 1998. most people go for a team because of family tradition or because they grew up in that suburb. I only started watching football when I came to canberra and one of the first people I met here was a gothic Uruguayan Carlton supporter named Gonzalez (Gony) every Sunday we would take over his lounge room for the matches ( NRL and AFL ) and for the first while I was happy to get caught up in his enthusiasm and drink the afternoon away with no attachment to any team as the weeks went by I realised that in the presence of such a Carlton fan not having a team was a severe disadvantage. With no family team to follow, and no real local team either, I simply had to find one for any reason. During that year and especially on game day they were saturating the breaks with Tony Lockets advanced hair studios ad, he epitomised everything wrong with the image of that company for me ( but I am certainly not baldist I just think its unfortunate that the ads seemed to cheapen the idea of regaining hair down to a great way to meet the chicks and make yourself look good on a jet ski) so the first time I saw his team (Sydney swans for those who aren’t sure) play they faced up to the perpetual underdogs saint Kilda. I barracked for them of course and the game turned into blood bath with the swans going down by more than 100 points. Apart from that I think the saints appealed to me their big names Everett and gering looked like they would be just as comfortable threatening violence in a river side bar as inflicting damage to the hoity seeming egos of the clean cut swans. that year the saints reached the lofty heights of no. 2 on the ladder by mid season, only to finish in a convincing middle of the bottom eight. And they have recently pretty much continued to show hope and come short often but I still support them and will be forever grateful to Tony “ plugger (hair plugs)” locket for helping pick my team.
I have the night off tonight and with the weather so crap it is almost definitely soup weather but I am also waiting to hear back from a mate to see if he wants to go to dinner 2 nite or Friday either way I am going to a place called “a bite to eat” so my next post will be a review for what has become a dining institution in the unlikely suburb of Chifley. Post ya soon, Dave
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sweet redemption

June 20th 2007 05:26
Well as much as I would have made today’s blog about the mixed success of the saints in the afl and miniature decorative Kugel hof moulds I have brulee success to report. To complete the notes I left on yesterdays posting just constantly stir your mix while it is over the heat and take off the heat as soon as you think it is ready. For the recipe I calculated that the fat content for 1 100ml serve would be 12.5 grams and the calories to be roughly 150, making it not ultra light by modern pre-prepared standards but certainly well short of the 35grams fat and almost 400 calories you would find in most restaurant brullee tonight is official chicken night in our house we have some tender loins that need using. The tenderloin is a sliver of meat that is lightly attached to the under side off the breast. This muscle gets its name and tender reputation from the fact that it’s the laziest muscle in a chicken. When you buy these already off the breast the only preparation they may need is to remove the sinew from the middle, this is not mandatory but the sinew can provide chewiness to an otherwise compliant piece of meat. Tonight I will be making a pasta bake with chicken bacon and mushroom.

ingredidient


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when sweets go bad

June 19th 2007 06:06
Your text goes hereTo start my post I would like to say after gaining 5 kg I am now the heaviest I have been ever, I must be doing something right as my energy levels are also on the improve and all with just a slight tweaking of my well entrenched habits. Other wins for our house hold this week include my kids eating a roast dinner with out threats or bribes and my wife has maintained a healthy and steady weight loss on the same diet I use to pack it on. Now last post I included a healthy version of a brownie recipe which I have made successfully. As a chef I am not immune to the odd disaster. In the kitchen however stuff ups are the mother ( or at least a cousin twice removed ) to success. On my other site I have posted a brulee recipe a classic French dessert which can put weight and cholesterol into a person sitting three doors down in another restaurant. This is a tried and true recipe and once perfected you can impress even the most ardent foodies. Now I recently made on a whim and with no time to prepare a low fat low calorie version which had all the class of lumpy custard and bore little resemblance to the creamy orgasmic brullee I have often produced. Here is that recipe

The “don’t try this at home because this recipe sux” brulee


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food as medicine

June 14th 2007 01:54
Today we I will talk about food as medicine. I have a tonne of unqualified advice I am currently taking, and if you manage to wade through the myths and legends of medicine food and what the doubters say and the believers preach you will most likely get to the point I am at where you know all food is medicine you just need to balance it and you will be ok.
The theory in essence can be demonstrated by what ive been told happens at a lot of Chinese tables every mealtime. An array of dishes are served all of which have properties that rid damp of spleen or cool the liver (the exact meaning of these terms I will not guess at) but the table is not piled high with concoctions and foul smelling herbs, it has a regular family meal and through an education as to how the individual dishes make the family members feel they will take a bit of this and a bit of that and a no thankyou to that. You of course have to remember that Chinese culture has had a long time to get it right, but the lesson is simple, that for the most part, everything you put into your body has an effect, and if you can intuitively eat what you need when you need it, then your instance of illness can only decrease. So with this as a guide I set out to awaken my intuition. Harder then it sounds when for years your has been any number of ingrained habits taught through advertising and other forms of misinformation. So I start at the very beginning, break fast,. My habit for many years has been a take it or leave one to morning meals, this of course is not wise so I have experimented with a number of things. The yogurt and muesli came out better then the coffee and cigarette, and tea and toast better than bourbon and beer nuts. On the whole I tracked my mood and product ability and came out in front whenever I had a hearty some times 2 course breaky with tea. Now I talked about the 5 veg and 2 fruit yester day the other important thing to do is have a broad range of colours (a fact supported by Chinese medical practitioners also) this ensures you get a range of vitamins and minerals as these are the very things that effect the colours of the fruit. For instance beet root is high in iron ( red and green veg as a rule of thumb usually contain iron) oranges vitamin c and spinach has quite bit of calcium in it. A diet I read about once was pretty much water spinach and oranges. The vitamin c from the oranges supported a lot of the bodies needs, while the spinach provided calcium, roughage and iron. Between these two apparently most basic elements are taken care of and as the major part of a raw food diet it can be very good for you. The major draw back of this diet is that in order to get the energy needs and to balance it you would have to eat in excess of 1.5 kilos of spinach. I think that may be a large ask for the most staunchly stubborn vegan, you would be eating most of the day just to keep up. With a bit of research any ones diet can be tweaked to be health. A bit less of this a bit more of that and some replacement of some less healthy staples can make the world of difference. 2 appointments with a nutritionist or dietician makes a huge difference as in stead of fitting around a pre fab diet that can be restrictive and also be a complete change from what you have in your cupboard, get personal advice so to take into account the good things you are often doing already.

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Hi every one today I will be talking of the parents diet and how I have done some dramatic changes in the overall house hold diet without having to resort to hostage taking or guerrilla warfare. As I mentioned briefly yesterday my absence was due in part to a health problem, which though its not embarrassing I will omit details till further tests are complete, and health is always to do with life style and diet. I have always been under weight which has disadvantages such being less able to fight off disease and less energy stores. For me my weight was not some thing I watched, I eat more then my fair share of crap food, and as I am a chef I often eat high fat high carb foods that by rights should be piling on the kgs. To make things more interesting my wife has been dieting to lose a couple of kilos so along with training the kids we have been turning the kitchen on its head to meet every ones needs. Now it may not be so surprising to some of the readers that for the most part every body in the equation needed the same basic things. So heres pretty much what we did
1. got some advice. We consulted a dietician, naturopath, family doctor and the nodss people in Melbourne. All of these people agreed on most of the core of our diet. That was to reduce on high gi foods such as rice, potato, pasta, any thing sugary, pumpkin sweet potato, banana. Increase all other vegetable intake using the five serves vegetable two fruit ratio. Keep an eye on the protein intake, mine was quite low. for the average person who does light exercise 1 gram protein per kg of body weight per day will keep you in the range, you need more if your athletic or a body builder, and les if your non active. Count calories if you have an aim, ie gain, maintain or lose weight, there are programs on the market which do the math after you enter the product. We are using calorie king which seems to be doing a great job so far. This is what we have learnt from consulting the above practitioners. Others I would suggest include Chinese practitioners, specialist doctors involved in ongoing medical care of your family but the most fruitful source can often be friends or relatives who seem to be healthy and fit.

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sorry for my absence

June 4th 2007 04:25
Hello to anyone who has been checking this blog. I firstly would like to apologise to the handful of people who have checked in on culinarian in the previous weeks. I can only say that my absence was due to a combination of car disasters and medical problems. So that behind me lets get to subject of the next few entries being that of diet. I will be covering a range of general subject that have become relevant to me in the recent past, these will include my staple bug bear of “ how to get your kids to eat the good stuff”. I will also be discussing realistic dieting, weight loss, weight gain (intentional), combating disease with food. I have been developing some menus around typical home cooking made with particular care to avoid excessive fat and high calorie foods. So with out further ado here we go.

The continuing adventures of Izaac and Ruby in good food land


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