Michael E. Generalidining at rock salt
March 14th 2007 04:41
Rock Salt Restaurant Review, by David Burke
Nestled amongst the unassuming Hawker Shops, the ever-popular Rock Salt, is one of a handful of innovative establishments located away from the inner suburbs. Rock Salts regular clientele and the uninitiated alike should be glad of the fact that in a matter of months Rock Salts new chef Sam Mills and owners Ian Williams and John Mazurkiewicz are making their mark on the Canberra food scene. Tuesday to Saturday nights this restaurant provides friendly service for small functions and formal intimate dining. Its modern Australian cuisine is alive and well, with a menu providing exciting options for the brave and yet still catering for those who are content with tried and true.
The interior has not changed with the departure of Brad and Janine Wolters and still has the cosy “cellar” corner if you desire to be tucked away in a quiet, intimate space. The simple but tasteful fit out features corrugated iron, navy blue high backed seating and crisp white tablecloths, complimented by soft lighting and the strains of cool modern lounge music.
We were shown to the table by our friendly waiter for the evening and heard a short list of tantalising specials. Left with the comprehensive wine list (28 pages from pre dinner to digestive) and after pondering the extensive range we eventually took a punt on their 2004 Lerida Estate Shiraz Viognier from Lake George ($23), which was light and peppery with under tones of apple. We loved the menu, clearly stated with a separate page for vegetarian options and coeliac meals clearly marked.
We ordered the Italian Bread with Dipping Tapenades to start($3.50pp). The bread was served warm, but was a bit light and fluffy to fit my definition of Italian, yet the tapenades (Roast Garlic, Sun Dried Tomato and Pesto) had enough character and density to omit this minor detail. The menu caters well for vegetarians, such as my guest, who chose the Cauliflower and Heidi Racelette Rissoles with Pear Dressing ($15.50) for entrée while I selected one of the specials, Crispy Pork Belly with Scored Japanese Scallops and Sautéed Cabbage ($18.90). The cauliflower rissoles presented as quenelles and tasted gorgeous, with a smooth texture. The sharp cheese complimented the cauliflower wonderfully; the only critique would be that they did look a little like a meat dish. The Pork Belly was presented in a perfect square, flanked by scallops and just cooked to retain shape and moisture. The pork melted in my mouth and the crackling was expertly applied. The cabbage and a salty, sweet sauce balanced this dish fantastically. After a short break I returned to find our napkins refolded and glasses topped up. I was impressed by the diligence and attention to detail. Our attentive waiter then brought a palette cleanser of passionfruit sorbet. This was crisp, fresh and smooth and was quickly polished off while we watched the procession of beautiful dishes exit the kitchen.
Our mains arrived in great time, my guest had the Twice-Cooked Broccoli and Goats Cheese Soufflé with Pumpkin Seed Salsa ($24.50) and I enjoyed the signature dish of Double Roasted Duck on Shitake Mushroom Rice Cake with Duck Sausage and Jus ($28.90). The vegetarian main was served as three individual light soufflés topped with an intriguing salsa, which was bright with spice and had an earthy texture and after taste. This unlikely combination worked really well together and was cooked to perfection. My duck arrived as a dark tower of aroma, with a spray of steamed Bok Choy. The mushroom rice cake was Moreish and the duck was braised divinely. The sausage, though slightly different to the one i remember from other visits, was still infused with spices and was the succulent delicacy I finished the dish with. Our waiter brought over the delectable dessert board and explained each in detail. We opted for the Jaffa Broulee and the Caramelised Avocado Semifredo. The waiter suggested a complimentary tasting of the Wellington Iced Riesling, which I ordered to partner my dessert. It has all the botrytis qualities one would expect, but much lower residual sugar that makes for a refreshing tart finish. The Broulee was one of the best I have tried in a long time. Its incredibly smooth texture, crisp caramel and orange under tones were tempered with a slight bitterness that only improved the experience. The garnish of a perfectly formed Brandy Snap and rich Orange Curd also rounded out this awesome dessert. The Avocado Semifredo was presented with Macadamia Short bread. Making a sweet dish of this fruit is a brave undertaking that certainly payed off. I would wholeheartedly recommend this wonderfully creamy dessert, with appeal going well beyond novelty.
The generous serves made for a hearty experience yet the class of the dishes ensured that quality was not compromised. The service throughout the evening was attentive, yet unintrusive and left us with a genuine smile on our faces. We spent an enjoyable evening at Rock Salt, which proved to me that iconic restaurants, such as this, do not have to fade into mediocrity with a change of ownership.
Contact details-
Location- Shop 4/78 Hawker pl, Hawker
Phone- 62547865
Open tues to fri lunch
Tues to sat dinner
Cuisine- Modern Australian
Capacity- 60 inside
16 outside
licensed- yes.
byo bottled wine only $8
pay- all major credit cards, eftpos no cheques
wheel chair access- yes but no toilet
degustation available 5 course
food only $53.90 with wine $73.90
8 course food only $83.90
with wine $150.90
vegetarian, yes extensive menu
ceoliacs catered for also
Nestled amongst the unassuming Hawker Shops, the ever-popular Rock Salt, is one of a handful of innovative establishments located away from the inner suburbs. Rock Salts regular clientele and the uninitiated alike should be glad of the fact that in a matter of months Rock Salts new chef Sam Mills and owners Ian Williams and John Mazurkiewicz are making their mark on the Canberra food scene. Tuesday to Saturday nights this restaurant provides friendly service for small functions and formal intimate dining. Its modern Australian cuisine is alive and well, with a menu providing exciting options for the brave and yet still catering for those who are content with tried and true.
We were shown to the table by our friendly waiter for the evening and heard a short list of tantalising specials. Left with the comprehensive wine list (28 pages from pre dinner to digestive) and after pondering the extensive range we eventually took a punt on their 2004 Lerida Estate Shiraz Viognier from Lake George ($23), which was light and peppery with under tones of apple. We loved the menu, clearly stated with a separate page for vegetarian options and coeliac meals clearly marked.
We ordered the Italian Bread with Dipping Tapenades to start($3.50pp). The bread was served warm, but was a bit light and fluffy to fit my definition of Italian, yet the tapenades (Roast Garlic, Sun Dried Tomato and Pesto) had enough character and density to omit this minor detail. The menu caters well for vegetarians, such as my guest, who chose the Cauliflower and Heidi Racelette Rissoles with Pear Dressing ($15.50) for entrée while I selected one of the specials, Crispy Pork Belly with Scored Japanese Scallops and Sautéed Cabbage ($18.90). The cauliflower rissoles presented as quenelles and tasted gorgeous, with a smooth texture. The sharp cheese complimented the cauliflower wonderfully; the only critique would be that they did look a little like a meat dish. The Pork Belly was presented in a perfect square, flanked by scallops and just cooked to retain shape and moisture. The pork melted in my mouth and the crackling was expertly applied. The cabbage and a salty, sweet sauce balanced this dish fantastically. After a short break I returned to find our napkins refolded and glasses topped up. I was impressed by the diligence and attention to detail. Our attentive waiter then brought a palette cleanser of passionfruit sorbet. This was crisp, fresh and smooth and was quickly polished off while we watched the procession of beautiful dishes exit the kitchen.
The generous serves made for a hearty experience yet the class of the dishes ensured that quality was not compromised. The service throughout the evening was attentive, yet unintrusive and left us with a genuine smile on our faces. We spent an enjoyable evening at Rock Salt, which proved to me that iconic restaurants, such as this, do not have to fade into mediocrity with a change of ownership.
Contact details-
Location- Shop 4/78 Hawker pl, Hawker
Phone- 62547865
Open tues to fri lunch
Tues to sat dinner
Cuisine- Modern Australian
Capacity- 60 inside
16 outside
licensed- yes.
byo bottled wine only $8
pay- all major credit cards, eftpos no cheques
wheel chair access- yes but no toilet
degustation available 5 course
food only $53.90 with wine $73.90
8 course food only $83.90
with wine $150.90
vegetarian, yes extensive menu
ceoliacs catered for also
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