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Canberra Table - October 2007

the Green Herring restaurant

October 26th 2007 06:11
warm and cosy inside
warm and cosy inside
now i know i have stalled on this one a while, but its for good reason. i didnt eat there as such for the review, it was my wife, but to be fair i asked mr Green to pack me a take home meal . if you havent been to the Green Herring yet then chances are you are walking around with this funny feeling like your life is not quite complete ( this could also mean you need to go out and buy a fancy sports car or go skydiving, but eating at the green herring is alot safer and cheaper then both of these) its a blody good feed and its atmosphere is unique and casual. i reviewed briefly the murrumbateman pub which has a plethora of antiques scattered round its resonably new walls, i mean, thats ok, but the green herring as a whole is an antique. housed inside an 1850's shearers hut it oozes history like some people ooze sex appeal, the many rusty implements on the walls were actually used for their intended purpose at some stage and the two fire places burn real wood rather then being those tacky faux wood gas versions. now thats enough about the look and feel the taste is what this is all about and also what i go back for every time, having worked there i know how ingenious the cooking is, its a small kitchen so everything thats produced has to be done with a bit of flair, and a lot of skill, any fool can produce great meals given a big kitchen and enough staff, but it takes some genius to produce quality where space and staff are scarce (and given the heritage value of the building expanding the kitchen is not an option). now as far as what my wife and her friends ate, there is a possibilty that due to the level of merry making that followed dinner the records are some what garbled. they were however being looked after by one of my favourite floor managers, Jane Herring whose relaxed and friendly service style always puts me in the mood for feast, i can tell you that the two vegetrians were very well catered for, with a variation of the pear and celery leaf salad with hazelnuts and a blue cheese dressing and a hand made parpadelle dish made specially for mains (dietry requirments are all accomodated for at the green herring) i will give you more precise info on what i had after i picked up my wife from the george later that evening. The Kangaroo red wine and garlic pie on swede mash with muscat sage sauce was simply divine. rich succulent and perfectly braised chunks of kangaroo in a rich and morish stew, wrapped in Grahams special shortcrust ( i won't say his secret but go along to one of his classes at cooking coordinates(click here) you might get the info that way) which was baked to golden brown. crisp and yielding with no stodgy bits ( where theres too much pastry somewhere on the pie and it doesn't cook), perched on a pepperery swede mash(bashed neeps for you scots men) and doused with sage muscat sauce, just to bring the last of your taste buds to their knees. i topped this off with a serve of the beetroot and dark chocolate cake,
green herring from the front
green herring from the front
a moist and flourless epicenter of meal ending decadence, the texture and structure seems to defy physics in the way it is so moist and dense while still holding itself up on the plate and tasting so superb. sided with the light mousse and thick cream (to balance the yang of the cake) this dish is bound to make people very horny or energetic or both. i think i better leave it there before i invoke some censorship but in parting i thouroughly enjoyed this restaurant and plan to visit there numerous time in the near future (for real this time) i encourage all to give it a go, regards Dave


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