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review collection- delissio

June 23rd 2007 01:39
Situated in the suburb of Curtin, quite separate from the usual southern feeding grounds of Manuka and Kingston, you will find Delissio, a bustling hot spot of hospitality. Delissio’s fresh décor, contrasts a red lit night club style bar, tucked away to the side in an unobtrusive way, with a tall airy white dining area, over hung with giant orb like light shades (mirrored in a painting by Veronica Grobben, wife of chef Jeremy Grobben and part owner). It’s a simple and dramatic design that gives the large room a feeling of warmth. Chef and owner Jeremy Grobben draws inspiration from a broad swathe of cuisines for his menus, and goes for a fresh simple approach, qualities most important to modern Australian cuisine.

My wife and I arrive at the restaurant, which even on a cool spring weeknight, has customers waiting inside and out for tables. Once seated, we spend the first minutes taking in the upbeat and buoyant atmosphere. After perusing the wine list, we choose by the glass selections, a Sergi Estate S.A. shiraz ($7.5) and a Matua valley N.Z. sauvignon blanc ($7.5). My Wife’s Sergi Estate is smooth and complex with a light, peppery after taste, while my sauvignon blanc is bright, with passionfruit flavours and has an even finish on the palate, complimenting our menu selections nicely.
We take in the comprehensive menu, while enjoying the Quartet of dips (homous, beetroot, vegetable pave and pumpkin sweet chilli.) accompanied by char grilled pita bread. The bread was more like char grilled pizza bread, soft and freshly baked, though given the choice it’s what I would have picked. The homous is fantastic, with the lemon and garlic the foremost flavours in this variation of the favourite. For Entrée my wife selects a goat’s cheese stack ($11) while I choose the goong wan jor ($15). The stack is constructed of rustic pieces of roasted sweet potato dolloped with pesto and goats cheese, simple yet displaying a complex marriage of flavours lacking in a lot of vegetarian options. My gong wan jor presents as a pyramid of fried spring roll wrapped prawns, prosciutto and capsicum served with tart lemon aioli. It is filling for an entrée, and I would advise that you definitely use the lemon provided to compliment the oiliness of this dish.

For mains I decide to try the Duck a la orange (a special) while my wife opts for the country pumpkin pizza ($15). The duck, served on kipfler potatoes, is succulent and sweet and accented with the lovely orange sauce nothing more is needed on the plate to complete this dish. The pizza is a wonderful symphony of flavour, pumpkin harmonising with cashews while the blue cheese provides a sharp contrast, marvellous and delicious vegetarian.
Sadly, as the dessert menu beckoned, the complimentary steamed vegetables barely got a sniff. We selected the lemon tart from the specials board and the vanilla bean crème brulee ($10) from the menu. The lemon tart is fresh, sharp and lovely and comes with a delicious lemon sorbet. The crème brulee came out naked (no mould) lightly caramelised and was served with a shot of choc malt milkshake and pistachio bread. Smooth and creamy, with a great variation on the presentation, what more could we ask for?
Our meals were ample in size, and were very enjoyable, providing generous value for money. The service, for the most part, was warm, friendly and relaxed. Delissio’s menu relies on using quality ingredient, pricing reasonably, and presenting tastefully and simply, a no nonsense approach which has gained a loyal following. This is modern Australian at its most dynamic, and few who go under this banner display such passion or vitality as Jeremy Grobben.

Address: 83 Theodore st Curtin
Phone 62820855
Opening hours: Dinner 7 days
Lunch Tuesday to Friday
Breakfast: Sunday from 8:30
Cuisine: Modern Australian
To pay: EFTPOS, major credit cards no cheque
Special dietary requirements: menu options for coeliac and vegetarian.
Disabled: access to restaurant but not to toilet.
Selections. Fresh Italian bread $4, oysters natural $16/$22, Portuguese spiced prawns$14, risotto gamberi $17, chicken gumbo $24, paupiette de veau $24, salads: Caesar $12/$16, warm steak salad $12/$16, dessert: choc fudge cheese cake $10, hazelnut tiramisu $8, orange and almond flourless cake $9.
Renowned for:
Innovative modern Australian cuisine.
Summary: buoyant and upbeat atmosphere coupled by a menu full of tasty variations from many cuisines. Well worth a try.



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