Michael E. Generalireview collection-tillys devine cafe
June 23rd 2007 01:43
Few establishments in Canberra enjoy such a popular reputation as Tilleys Devine Café in Lyneham. It’s a credit to owner Pauli Higgison that Tilleys has remained a popular local haunt and dining spot that has earned fans from all over the world. One vital element that Tilleys is renowned for is the long list of musical acts that ring up in the hope that they can play on this unique stage. Tilleys broke ground by banning groups of men in the early days unless they had at least one female member, this coupled with a no smoking policy long before it was enforced and pioneering alfresco dining in Canberra are just some of the quality strings in Tilleys bow. The hallowed dining area, is a sparsely lit room awash with deep red velvet curtains and dark wood panelling. Quiet tucked away booths frame the room, brass bar fittings and waiting staff decked out in white blouses and ties, gives the distinct feel of a 1920s period movie. This is no accident, as the cafes name sake Tilley Devine was a prominent and flamboyant socialite and criminal, who ran brothels in Sydney from the 1920s to the 1950s.
We arrive at Tilleys with the early worshipers atoning for their hangovers by praying to the god espresso. We settle into our booth with our two children and guests. There is no table service, a fact that does not detract from the efficiency of the wait staff. Consuming our first coffees (flat white $3.30) while perusing the delicious and tempting menu. The coffee is perfect, not boiled or bitter, an improvement on some that I have had there over the years. After ordering our breakfast we enjoy the atmosphere as the tables around us quickly fill with customers. After a short wait, our meals arrive and we tuck in eagerly to the ample offerings. Our two little ones have the pancake stacks with maple syrup and king island cream ($9.50). The sweet disks are a hit and are devoured in good order, keeping them satisfied for the duration of breakfast. My dining companions have variations of eggs Benedict (with either bacon$9.90, smoked salmon $14.50 or sautéed mushrooms $10.40) the mixed grain toast makes a great base for this meal a welcome departure from bland muffins, an often expected accompaniment. The hollandaise is just the right consistency gently coating the dish and providing a tart flavour to compliment the eggs. The poached eggs that arrive are very runny, slightly diminishing the enjoyment of this dish for some of my guests. The house made baked beans ($9.50) are my selection with bacon and mushrooms as extras ($2.50ea). The beans are rustic and delicious, with chunks of tomato and a good smattering of herbs. The mushrooms are well sautéed in butter and garlic and are delicious. The generous serve of bacon that arrived with this dish is quite over cooked, forcing me to leave most of it in the end and the garnish of rocket on the savoury dishes did seem a bit tired. Attention to detail seemed just out of reach
Tilleys Devine Café remains an iconic venue where the unique ambience is the main ingredient. Every Canberran should visit this retro establishment at least once for its cultural and symbolic significance alone it offers a special something that some cafes will never quite achieve.
Address: the corner of Brigalow and wattle st Lyneham
Phone: 62477753
Owner: Pauli Higgison
Chef: Andrew Tozer
Opening hours Monday to Saturday 9am to 9pm
Sunday 9am to 5pm
With breakfast served 9am to 11:30 weekdays
9am to 4pm on weekends
seating 277 inside and 150 outside
payment visa, mastercard, bankcard, eftpos no cheque
wheel chair access yes to dining room and toilet
licensed: yes and strictly no BYO
renowned as an eclectic live music venue
selections: breakfast foccacia $8.90, grilled croissant $8.90, banana bread $9.50, baked beans $9.50, house made muesli from $5.80, porridge from $5.80, all extras $2.50
summary: tilleys devine café is an establishment where its unique ambience is the main ingredient. Food is available all day and whether you are alone or in a group the atmosphere is relaxing and enjoyable.
Address: the corner of Brigalow and wattle st Lyneham
Phone: 62477753
Owner: Pauli Higgison
Chef: Andrew Tozer
Opening hours Monday to Saturday 9am to 9pm
Sunday 9am to 5pm
With breakfast served 9am to 11:30 weekdays
9am to 4pm on weekends
seating 277 inside and 150 outside
payment visa, mastercard, bankcard, eftpos no cheque
wheel chair access yes to dining room and toilet
licensed: yes and strictly no BYO
renowned as an eclectic live music venue
selections: breakfast foccacia $8.90, grilled croissant $8.90, banana bread $9.50, baked beans $9.50, house made muesli from $5.80, porridge from $5.80, all extras $2.50
summary: tilleys devine café is an establishment where its unique ambience is the main ingredient. Food is available all day and whether you are alone or in a group the atmosphere is relaxing and enjoyable.
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